Rest Carabiners: The Unsung Hero of Every Via Ferrata Adventure
When most people prepare for their first via ferrata, they focus on the essentials: a helmet, harness, and via ferrata lanyard. But there's one small piece of gear that experienced climbers rarely leave behind—a rest carabiner.
It's inexpensive, weighs only a few ounces, and can make the difference between fighting through a difficult section and comfortably enjoying the adventure. After guiding countless climbers on the Ashley Gorge Via Ferrata, we've seen firsthand how much confidence and comfort a simple rest carabiner can provide.
What Is a Rest Carabiner?
A rest carabiner is an additional climbing-rated locking or non-locking carabiner that's attached to your harness or via ferrata lanyard and used exclusively for resting.
Unlike your via ferrata lanyards—which are designed to absorb the forces of a fall—a rest carabiner simply supports your body weight while you're stationary. It allows you to sit back in your harness, shake out your arms, catch your breath, or take in the incredible views without constantly hanging onto the rock.
Many modern via ferrata lanyards include a dedicated attachment loop specifically designed for adding a rest carabiner, making it an easy upgrade for most climbers.
Why You'll Be Glad You Have One
The Ashley Gorge Via Ferrata is a true climbing experience, and while your legs may feel great all day, your forearms are usually the first muscles to fatigue.
Even strong, athletic people are often surprised by how much grip strength they use.
A rest carabiner allows you to:
Shake out tired forearms
Navigate difficult or overhanging terrain
Catch your breath
Relax your grip
Take photos
Enjoy the scenery
Wait comfortably for others in your group
Regain confidence before continuing
Instead of relying on your hands to support your body, your harness takes over.
Sometimes thirty seconds of rest is all it takes to feel ready again.
What Happens If You Don't Have One?
Imagine you've just reached Bad Grammar or decided to tackle its steeper variation, Syntax Error.
Your forearms are pumped. You've been gripping harder than you realized, and suddenly letting go with either hand feels like a bad idea… but you still have to move your lanyard!
Without a rest carabiner, your only option is to push through while your arms continue to tire and hope you don’t fall. Some climbers become mentally stuck—not because they aren't capable of finishing, but because fatigue makes every move feel more difficult than it really is.
With a rest carabiner, the situation is completely different.
Clip into a rung or the cable, sit back in your harness, let your forearms recover, take a few deep breaths, and continue when you're ready.
It's one of those pieces of gear you don't appreciate until the moment you need it.
Different Ways to Build a Rest System
There are several ways to add a rest carabiner to your climbing setup. Here are the three most common options.
Option 1: Attach a Rest Carabiner to Your Via Ferrata Lanyard
Many via ferrata lanyards include a dedicated loop specifically intended for a rest carabiner. Simply attach a climbing-rated carabiner to that loop (it can be non-locking), and you're ready to clip into anything on the course and take a rest.
This is the simplest, lightest, and most affordable setup—and the one we recommend for most Ashley Gorge Via Ferrata climbers. For the vast majority of recreational climbers, this is all you'll ever need, and it’s what we put on every single rental lanyard that exits our doors.
Keep in mind, however, that with this type of rest carabiner there’s one very important note: never clip your rest carabiner back into your harness gear or belay loops. This would defeat the purpose of the shock absorbing pack on the lanyard and could result in severe injury in the event of a fall.
Pros
Affordable
Lightweight
Simple to use
Minimal gear
Cons
Fixed length, less versatile for different heights
Less versatile for other climbing disciplines
Absolutely must not clip rest carabiner in to anywhere else on your harness while climbing
Option 2: Use a Petzl Connect Adjust
If you're looking for the most versatile setup, the Petzl Connect Adjust is an outstanding option, and one we carry in our gear shop.
Instead of being fixed at one length, the Connect Adjust allows you to quickly lengthen or shorten your tether while you're attached to an anchor. That makes it easy to find the perfect resting position regardless of where the anchor is located.
It's also useful beyond via ferratas for single-pitch climbing, anchor management, and many other climbing situations.
Pros
Fully adjustable
Extremely comfortable
Versatile for many climbing applications
Cons
Higher cost
Less intuitive for new climbers
Slightly more gear to manage
Option 3: Use a Quickdraw or Alpine Draw
Many experienced climbers already own a few quickdraws or alpine draws.
While these weren't specifically designed as rest systems, they can work well in a pinch by providing a convenient way to clip into a rung or cable and take your weight off your arms.
An alpine draw also gives you the option of extending your tether when needed.
Pros
Many climbers already own them
Affordable if you already have climbing gear
Multi-purpose equipment
Cons
Not purpose-built as a rest system
Less convenient than dedicated options
Where Should You Clip?
First, let’s be clear: your rest carabiner should never replace an actual via ferrata lanyard, and your via ferrata lanyard should still remain attached to the safety cable at all times. The rest carabiner simply allows you to transfer your body weight to your harness while you're taking a break. On the Ashley Gorge Via Ferrata, you can clip into anything on the course to take a rest— rungs, cables, cable terminations, you name it.
One thing to remember though, if your rest carabiner is attached directly to your lanyard, is that you should never have it clipped back into your harness. This defeats the purpose of the shock absorbing pack on your lanyard, and can result in severe injury in the event of a fall.
Is a Rest Carabiner Required?
No.
Thousands of people complete via ferratas every year without one.
But if you ask experienced guides what inexpensive piece of gear makes the biggest difference in comfort, a rest carabiner is usually near the top of the list.
It's especially helpful for:
First-time via ferrata climbers
Families with children
Anyone concerned about grip strength
Climbers who enjoy taking photos
People who simply want a more relaxed experience
Our Recommendation
If you're climbing the Ashley Gorge Via Ferrata, we highly recommend bringing a rest carabiner. Dyno Outfitters provides them on every rental lanyard, but if you’re renting or borrowing from somewhere else, double check that they have one.
Whether it's a simple locking or non-locking carabiner attached to your via ferrata lanyard or a Petzl Connect Adjust, having the ability to comfortably rest can completely change your experience on the course.
When you reach Bad Grammar—or decide to test yourself on Syntax Error—you'll be glad it's there.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use any carabiner as a rest carabiner?
Use a climbing-rated locking or non-locking carabiner from a reputable manufacturer. It's a small investment that adds both security and peace of mind.
Does my via ferrata lanyard already have a place for one?
Most modern via ferrata lanyards include a dedicated attachment loop specifically intended for adding a rest carabiner. Check your manufacturer's instructions to verify whether yours does.
Can I clip my rest carabiner into my harness when not in use?
The short answer is: it depends. If your rest carabiner is attached to the dedicated loop on your lanyard, then you absolutely should not clip it into your harness, as that would defeat the purpose of the shock absorbing pack. If your rest carabiner is a Petzl Connect Adjust or a separate quickdraw or alpine draw, then you can clip it into your gear loop when not in use.
Can I fall onto my rest carabiner?
No. A rest carabiner is designed for resting while stationary—not for arresting a fall. Your via ferrata lanyards remain your primary fall-protection system and should always stay attached to the safety cable.
Can I buy a rest system from Dyno Outfitters?
Absolutely. We carry locking and non-locking carabiners, the Petzl Connect Adjust, quickdraws, and alpine draws, and we're happy to help you choose the setup that best fits your climbing style and budget.
